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KSGER portable (compact) soldering station on STM32 v3.0
- Price: $48.80 (Sets 3)
Those who are interested in this topic know that on the microcontroller (MK) STM32 exist and more than once described here on the musker controllers of soldering stations versions v2.0, v2.0S, v2.1S. Reviews on these soldering stations have already been and more than once (who is interested to use the search on the site).
I also got a review of the KSGER soldering station in a compact case and with an external power supply version v3.0.
Who is interested to know what is so innovative/evolutionary/revolutionary(necessary to emphasize)I ask under THE CAT.
Sweet, laudatory ode will not - there will be a detailed disassembly and clarification of all the nuances, as well as a comparison with the soldering station v2.0 considered by me in one of the previous curbs (attention traffic, a lot of photos).
The parcel was delivered by the courier directly to the apartment, no matter how ordered...
The parcel itself is not a pretative gray package with information about delivery
Inside the package is a small cardboard box with no sign recognition wrapped in tape
Package weight 595g
Let's take a look inside
Everything is packed qualitatively and carefully.
We get it and consider
In the package
And without
And so, what came:
is a compact KSGER soldering station on the STM32 v3.0 controller with a 1.3-diagonal OLED display.
- soldering pen (rework of the HAKKO 900 series handle with liner) with wire and GX12-5 connector
- Power supply on 24B 3A, surprisingly - a European-style fork
- KSGER T12-K stinger
Nothing superfluous, modest and tasteful, any bonuses are absent ;-)
We begin a detailed examination of the kit that has arrived.
Let's start with the Soldaaya Station itself
The soldering station(further on the text of the PS)is assembled in a metal case. The hull itself consists of two identical P-shaped cuts of the dural profile with a section of 88 x19mm
and two dural panels , front and back
Profile depth 38mm
Given the thickness of the front and back panels have a depth of 41mm.
Sizes PS 88 x38 x41mm
The site lists the size of 88 x 38h40mm
I don't think it's a significant difference in 1mm.
Weight just over 100g
All elements of the case are not painted, but have an anodized coating. The coating is high-quality, scratches and snous.
The front and rear panels are fixed with the M3 screws with a hidden head, 4 screws on each panel.
On the front is a GX12-5 connector to connect the soldering handle, tinted glass covering the display, and the encoder handle is the only blowtorch.
The handle itself is a plastic cup with a liner, on my PS handle dural.
There is a power switch and a connector on the back to connect the external power source. Strangely, the inscription at the connector of the external power source is placed upside down.
The view was collected in the night shift and the collector was a little tired ;-).
It's okay, I'll call.
At the bottom of the case, on two-way scotch, rubber legs are glued
as long as time will tell, my PS legs are screwed with cogs.
Let's look inside the case.
Carefully open the case and what do we see there?
And see the PS v3.0 controller board with an OLED 1.3" display attached to the front, a CR2032 battery to power the watch while the PS is disconnected from the power source, glued to the bottom of the case on the double-sided scotch, power switch and 5.5x2.5 connector to connect the external power source.
Actually nothing special I did not expect here and did not expect ;-).
The only quibble, the places of ration of red wire from the connector to the switch for some reason are not closed by a shrink. Although the tension on these contacts and not high, and the walls of the case far enough, but the installation could be done and neatly.
Now consider the soldering pen
As I wrote above, the pen in this set is a reworking of the HAKKO 900-series handle with a special liner.
Many people have seen it here more than once, some of them use it. Pros and cons have been discussed more than once, so I will not repeat myself.
I'll focus a little more on the liner.
This is the third version of the liner that meets me for these pens.
I've got a liner like this.
The old version was also used with STC controllers with 7 segment LED displays.
The cruciate section frame, a rather rigid design, position sensor and termistor are located on the longitudinal edges of the frame. The wires are located in different places at the bottom of the frame. Although they are signed, it is easy to make a mistake by not attentiveness.
As it turned out during the operation, some users, with an intense change of sting, on the position sensor begins to wipe the protective shell. Nothing deadly, but still...
Very often in ready handles there are such earbuds ver. 2.5, 2.6
This liner has a position sensor and a termistor moved to the lower part of the board and are located on one side, and the places of the wires are flattened (located in one row) on the other hand, which is quite convenient for installation.
I got to review the pen with such a liner, ver. 3.6
Differences from ver. 2.5, 2.6 are not significant, mainly in the location of sensors and sing wires.
The wire is almost "classic" and the only difference is that the blue and white wires are swapped
i.e., the position sensor is a white wire and the termistor is blue. Why so do not know, can confuse us want ;-)
The wire from the handle to the GX12-5 connector has a diameter of 5mm and a length of 115cm.
The wire is really silicone, tried to warm a soldering iron - does not melt.
The gloss in the contact of the soldering sting heated up to 350 degrees Celsius was gone, but the insulation itself did not float.
But as for the flexibility of this wire, the similar that I buy on Tao,softer.
The GX12-5 connector is unpacked neatly, but the rations are not covered by a shrinkage
The GX12-5 connector case is metallic and the contact insulation would not be superfluous.
When I unpacked such a connector in my PS, I isolated the contacts
Now let's look at the Power Supply.
Power supply, aka AC/DC ADAPTOR, model KS-2430 has output parameters 24B 3A 72W
Check the output voltage - 24.15B
Weight of power supply with wires 300g
The power supply case is made of black plastic, its size is 133 x59 x35mm
At the top of the line there is a work indicator
burns pale blue, although through the vents of the hull breaks through the red - miracles and only.
There are air vents on the lower face and on the edges between the upper and lateral edges. The holes are real, not the scenery.
On one side of the power supply comes a network cable with a flat Euro-fork (without grounding)
The cable outside has an insulating PVC shell with a section of 3.5 x 5.0mm, a cable length of 87.5cm
Cable is harsh, cross-section of internal lived, if you believe markings, 2x0.5mm2
On the other hand, a cable comes out of the power supply to the PS with a 5.5 x2.5mm connector
The length of the cable is 108.5cm, 4mm diameter
The wire is not heat-resistant, with the usual PVC shell, section 20AWG
The 5.5 x2.5 connector itself is slightly skewed
But it doesn't affect work.
Well, let's look at the giblets of this power supply. It was not necessary to use brute force to open the power supply, the halves of the body are connected with the help of 6 backers
The power supply board was developed clearly under a different case.
The fact that this case is "not native" says several factors:
There are gaps in both length and width.
Those who repair laptops and their power supplies know how tight the board is inserted into the case. And in this case, that the board did not dangle in the case, used Chinese know-how - a piece of two-way tape, with which the board was glued to the body
- The board is designed to install a 220B power connector with grounding
Such a connector was probably even once installed on this board, as evidenced by the adhesive stain in place to install the connector.
In this case, the power cable wires are not even in the holes on the board, but directly to the tracks, and with which it is not very neat
the same goes for the place where the output cable is splous
- The light filter of the power indicator on the case is located in a completely different place, not where the board is hit with LEDs. For some reason there are two of them! One in a regular place of red and the second blue, covered in holes for the output wire)
It seems that in the new standard cases, thrust everything that fits in size and parameters, and not always new.
There was even an imprint of someone's finger.
There are traces of oxidation in the place where the output cable is snouting...
How does this power supply work at all???
A little circuitry.
The power supply is assembled according to the classic reverse-moving pulse scheme based on the SHIM controller with an external transistor.
The SHIM controller (IC1) is used as
Typical inclusion scheme
The installation of the board is two-sided, radio elements are located both on the top side of the board and on the bottom.
On the board there are almost all the necessary components of the pulse power supply: at the entrance there is a fuse, a ermistor, a varist, a two-cap interference-cancelling filter with X2 capacitors, diode bridge pressed to the radiator, high-voltage capacitor, as well as a high-voltage transistor attached to the radiator and pulse transformer, at the exit we have a diode assembly on the radiator, weekend electrolytic capacitors, two-winding choke, a circuit of voltage stabilization performed on imS TL431 and optopar.
To paint in more detail this power supply probably does not make sense, not the fact that you in such a case will be this fee.
In general, the circuitry and execution of this power supply I liked, made qualitatively and carefully (this is if you do not pay attention to the unwashed flux and a clear second-hand).
Let's start testing the blowtorch.
On the store's website, there are almost no parameters for this PS.
It is not possible for an enlightened buyer to understand that it may not be possible, only general characteristics are specified
Well, we will identify the technical capabilities during testing.
And so - we turn on.
The first thing that catches the eye is a curved display
A clear blockage at the bottom of the left.
Let's move on.
On the display, almost immediately, for 2-3 seconds there is an inscription with the name of the store KSGER
then ps goes into working mode, as reported by the bus embedded in the station. There is no pause in 2-3 seconds before the information appears on the display, which is so annoying to some users in PS v2.0 (v2.0S, v2.1S).
What we see on the screen:
- The top left corner shows the mode of operation and the exposed temperature for the current mode
- In the top right corner, the percentage of power supply power coming to the heating element of the sting is displayed at a given time
- in the center of the screen we see the current temperature on the heating element of the sting
- In the bottom left corner, a thermometer sign and a thermosensor temperature are displayed to compensate for the temperature of the cold sleep.
In the bottom right corner, depending on the settings, you can see either the input voltage of the power supply or two lines of date/time
As we can see, the differences in information on the display in PS v3.0 and v2.0 (v2.0S, v2.1S) are not significant.
What I didn't like was that there was no information about the current regret used and its calibration.
Let's look at the management options of the PS.
PS v3.0, as well as v2.0 (v2.0S, v2.1S), is controlled with the handle encoder. The transition to any mode of operation is confirmed by a beep.
The following ps control combinations are available: the rotation of the handle, the pressing of the handle, the press of the handle with the hold in the pressed position, pressing the rotation of the handle.
When the encoder handle rotates counterclockwise to 1 position, the PS switches from working mode (on set screen: XXX C)to Standby(STANDBY:XXXC),when the rotation is reversed, the working mode is switched back.
To put the PS to sleep (Sleeping),you need to quickly rotate the encoder handle counterclockwise to 3 positions. At the same time, in the center of the display will appear the inscription Sleeping ( z), where the number of seconds before going to sleep
and the timer will start for 5 seconds. The countdown will be accompanied by short beeps. After 5 seconds, the PS will fall asleep and a screen server will appear on the display
The heat of the sting is turned off and its temperature drops to room value.
To put the PS into working mode, you need to press the encoder button.
When the encoder handle rotates quickly clockwise into 3 positions, BOOST mode is activated - boosted heat - increasing the temperature of the PS sting to the value set in the settings menu and at a given time interval. Switching is accompanied by a long beep.
After this time, the PS goes into working mode and the sting temperature drops.
To turn off THE BOOST mode and get back into operation, it's enough to turn the encoder handles counterclockwise into one position.
If in working mode briefly click on the handle of the encoder, psets will go into presets selection mode and adjust their temperature
In this mode, the screen displays the Temp Set, preset No.1, and the temperature ats put. To select the next preset, you need to press and rotate the encoder handle. In the selected preset, the rotation of the encoder handle allows you to set the required temperature value, the change step is adjusted through the settings menu. When you briefly click on the encoder handle, the value is memorized and applied. A total of 5 presets are available.
With a long press on the handle of the encoder (more than 2 seconds) with a turn to the right get in the menu of choice of custom stings
Rotating the encoder handle allows you to select the necessary stinger from the formed list of custom stings.
Long-term clicking on the encoder handle (more than 2 seconds) allows you to get into the Set setup menu Setup Menu.
A total of 19 menu items are available. The transition between the points is rotated - the handle of the encoder, the entrance to a particular item - the click of the handle. Holding the pressed encoder handle for more than 3 seconds allows you to move from the menu item to the step higher. If, being in any menu item, do not take any action within 60 seconds PS switches to working mode.
- Standby Setup
This item displays:
Mode - Stand-off mode: Shake, Switch, Manual ( manual).
- Time - the time through which PS will switch to standby mode (0÷60 minutes).
Temp is a standby heat element (150÷300 degrees Celsius).
- Set up to sleep (slow shutdown mode).
This item sets up a time of 0÷60 minutes before the PS goes to sleep.
- Boost Heating
This item displays:
"Temp is an increase in temperature from the current temperature (10÷100 degrees Celsius).
Time is the time for boosted heating (1÷30 minutes).
- compensation for cold sleeping temperature
This menu item adjusts the temperature correction of the heating element depending on the ambient temperature:
Mode is a type of thermosensor used: CPU is a thermometer inside a microcontroller/NTC , a remote sensor in the pen of the soldering iron.
Temp is the temperature of the cold sleeper (0÷100 degrees Celsius).
- Library of Sting
- a step of temperature change
This item on the menu displays a change in temperature when the encoder handle rotates (1÷50 degrees Celsius).
- password protection to enter the settings menu
This item displays:
Switch - Protection Switch: ON - on/OFF - off.
Lock - the time before you start blocking the settings menu (0÷60 minutes).
- Screen Keeper
This item tunes in:
Switch - screen keeper turn on: ON - on/off - off.
DlyTime - the time interval after which the screen keeper starts (1÷60 minutes).
When the screen keeper is displaying a picture showing the current mode of operation (Running, Standby, Sleeping) and the temperature of the heating element of the sting
- mode of operation when switching on PS
This item of the menu adjusts the PS mode when it's enabled, with available values: Running, Standby, Sleeping.
- language choice
In this menu item, the language of the system is chosen: English or simplified Chinese.
- Setting a date and time.
- system information
This menu item shows:
HW Ver is a version of the board's release.
SW Ver is a firmware version.
- dumping PS into factory settings
this, after switching off/on power, PS will request the activation code.
Interesting coincidence: . ;-)
- boozer
This menu item adjusts the boomer state: ON - on/off - off.
- choice of rotation direction - encoder handle to increase/decrease the values set when managing PS
This menu item displays the options:
- Opposite - increasing the value of the parameter when spinning counterclockwise
- Channel - increasing the value of the parameter when spinning
- voltage
This item on the menu adjusts the switch from the state of the bottom right corner of the display to show the current value of the power supply input applied to the PS (state-to-day) or date/time (state - OFF).
- low power intake warning
This item tunes in:
Switch - state switch: ON - on/OFF - off.
- A20.1Vol is the voltage threshold at which a warning signal will be sent.
- Down Vol - the value of the power at which PS should remove the heating from the sting.
This option is used, for example, when powering PS from batteries.
- calibration menu
Options are available in this menu:
Start Adj is the start of the calibration.
Init Adj - calibration reset.
" Exit Adj is the way out of calibration mode.
- exit from the settings menu.
As we can see the menu PC v3.0 compared to the same in v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S) is quite heavily redesigned and supplemented.
During the testing of the settings menu, there were problems - sometimes when you change a set, the PS spontaneously switched from settings menu to work mode.
Calibration
I will use the HAKKO FG-100 thermometer
The HAKKO FG-100 thermometer is not a panacea, just I have it, as well as you can use almost any multimeter with a remote thermopa.
Take the proven sting T12-D24 and start calibration.
The calibration starts from the 18-point settings menu. Calibrated on the 3rd points: 250 degrees Celsius - 350 degrees Celsius - 430 degrees Celsius.
The calibration process itself has been described more than once, but I will repeat it again:
From the list of stings used, we choose the necessary
- we go to the 04th menu item and choose which thermosensor we will use: CPU / NTC, as well as exhibit the value of room temperature, in my case 25 degrees Celsius.
- we go to the 18th menu item and, for the purity of the experiment, initially reset the init Adj calibration
- go back to the 18th menu item and choose Start Adj
- The display displays a calibration menu at the bottom of 250 degrees Celsius
Point 1 - setting up a point with a temperature of 250 degrees Celsius
- Curr Temp ( 250 degrees Celsius) - temperature measured by PS
Real Temp - Real temperature on the regret
We measure the temperature on the sting with the external thermometer (don't forget to moisten the sting with a drop of solder) and rotate the encoder handle and set the Real Temp option in accordance with the thermometer's indication. Click on the encoder handle, the picture on the screen changes to
Point 2 - setting up a point with a temperature of 350 degrees Celsius.
We are calibrating at this temperature as well. Click on the handle of the encoder, the picture on the screen changes again, now on
Point 3 is a 430-degree setting point.
We are calibrating at this temperature as well. Push on the handle of the encoder, PS goes into working mode. The sting calibration is over.
If you go to the menu of choosing custom stings, then near the calibrated sting no additional symbols appeared.
In PS v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S) after calibration on display, in brackets, near the name of the sting sign 0 changed to q
Therefore, it is not clear whether the calibration is related to a particular complain or to everyone on the list.
Check the temperature on the screen and the tip of the sting in working mode.
The measured temperature on the sting differs from the one shown on the display not significantly, the error of -3 degrees Celsius is not significant.
Work test from external adjustable power supply
Since I have a compact PS with external power on the review, and the battery option is not excluded, we will check how it will work when the input voltage is lowered. For one check the warning and disabling the heat of the sting while reducing the power voltage below the established values.
As a power source, I will use the RD DPS5015 module, soaked from the transformer TN61 - diode bridge - electrolyte 20,000mFh40V
Maximum weekend options: U'35B, I'6A - enough with a reserve.
Originally in paragraph 16. Voltage Settings menus include a display in the bottom right corner of the input voltage.
Serve on PS 24B and check what voltage is displayed on the display
as we can see - 24B.
In paragraph 17. LowVoltege-P Settings menu we translate the Switch option into ON position. Threshold voltages are unchanged: the threshold voltage is 20.1B, the voltage of the heating sting is 19.5B.
We begin to lower the input tension. At a voltage below 20.1B PS emits 5 intermittent beeps, which are accompanied by a flashing display
The display then displays the information back in working mode.
Continue to lower the input tension on. The input voltage is 19B, and the station both worked and works - no heat outage of the sting, only the voltage indicator began to flash
Strangely, at the input voltage below 19.5B PS should remove the heat of the sting, otherwise the battery can be discharged in 0.
PSG are trying to heat the sting at a voltage below the voltage of the outage - 19.5B
Checked the station's performance when the input voltage was lowered. As it turned out, PS, or rather its electronic part, perfectly continues to work at lowering the input voltage up to 7B, but there is no sense in it. With this input voltage, the heating element of the sting no longer provides proper heating.
During the testing, the following parameters of this PS v3.0 were defined(if someone disagrees with something or can add to the write in the comments, discuss/complement):
1. The range of working temperatures is 150÷480 degrees Celsius.
2. Automatic compensation for cold sleeping temperature in the 0÷100-0-c range.
3. The calibration of the stings used is done on the 3rd points: 250 degrees Celsius - 350 degrees Celsius - 430 degrees Celsius.
4. There are a list of all types of sting HAKKO T12 (83 items) q 6 custom. There is an opportunity to form your own list of used stings.
5. Automatic going into Standby standby (you can set the time of 0÷60 minutes) with the sting temperature dropping to a set value.
6. Automatically go into Sleep Sleeping mode (you can set the time of 0÷60 minutes) with the heat of the sting.
7. Heating speed: from room temperature to 300 degrees Celsius for most stings for an average of 5-7 seconds (power source 24B).
8. Preservation of Temp Set presets of the exposed temperature (5 values).
9. Alert of lower power voltage: if the power voltage is lowered below the established value, the PS signals a decrease in the input voltage, and when the power voltage is lowered below the threshold, the PRESSURE should turn off the heat of the sting, but not in this case.
10. There are real-time clocks, although there is no correction of the clock.
11. There is a screen keeper mode with a screensaver.
12. Interface language: English and simplified Chinese.
During the testing I was waiting for one, very unpleasant, surprise. After resetting the station parameters to factory settings and rebooting on power, PS requested to enter the activation code
Why would it be???
Reset to factory settings is a regular procedure for any devices on microcontrollers/processors when the settings are lost and the device needs to be returned to its original state. This procedure should not be accompanied by re-activis.
I had to start correspondence with the store and wait for the code to be sent. The code was sent and I continued to investigate this PS.
With PS v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S) such problems did not arise, reset the parameters to the factory more than once and never entered the activation code did not have to.
Differences between soldering stations v3.0 and v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S)
- a fast start, there is no pause 2-3 seconds before the information appears on the display, as in PS v2.0 (v2.0S, v2.1S).
- The v3.0 printed board used (according to the settings menu) differs from v2.0, both using another microprocessor and having additional elements
Is different about managing working regimes
- There are differences in the information on the display in working modes, especially the use of another font
- Settings menu is quite heavily redesigned and supplemented, there are differences not only in the name of menu items, but also in their location in the list
There is no graphic information about calibrated stings on the display on the user sting list. It is not clear whether the calibration is related to a particular complain or to everyone on the list
When you reset to factory settings and reboot on the power supply, you need to enter the activation code
Some timers in the settings menu have a countdown of 0 minutes, which is not logical
There is no correcting the accuracy of the watch
The advantages and disadvantages of PS v3.0 and v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S) can be said to be the same. I will not paint everything, we have already discussed it more than once. Who's interested in reading here.
I will write only specifically for PS v3.0, which got me to review:
Pros
Compact/mobile
- versatility of application - you can soak up the PS from both BP (any providing the necessary parameters) and from batteries
- Settings menu items have a full (not abbreviated) name - convenience in setting up and operating
Cons
When you reset to factory settings and reboots on power, you need to enter an activation code that I don't think is good. The buyer should not have problems with activation after the reset.
not stable, raw firmware. Identified two problems: in the first case, PS was hanging, with the intense heating of the sting, had to turn off the power of the station; in the second case, problems were observed in the settings menu - sometimes when you change any option PS spontaneously switched from settings menu to work mode
The controller's board is installed in a skewed case
- crooked display
There is no information on the current regret used and calibration on the display in working mode
There is no correcting of the clock
- When the input power voltage is lowered below the voltage voltage, the heat of the sting continues
- with a compact performance and a hard cable to the pen of the soldering iron, the PS body sometimes "runs" behind the soldering iron
- power supply - in the new building of BU fee, the store KSGER decided to save on us - customers, but after buying a new thing, we should get a new thing, not second-hand
Let's sum it up: revolution did not happen. Here we are trying to move away from the basic firmware and create something of its own. It worked or not - it's not for me to decide.
Buy this PS or not let everyone decide on their own, I recommend it in the form in which it got on review, I can not. If in the future the firmware will be refined and fixed identified problems, it may turn out not a bad alternative. Time will tell...
The very idea of a compact case and a remote power supply I liked, did not like this implementation.
That's it.
Thank you all for your attention, I look forward to constructive criticism and comments.
The item is provided for the store's review. The review is published in accordance with section 18 of the site's Rules.
I also got a review of the KSGER soldering station in a compact case and with an external power supply version v3.0.
Who is interested to know what is so innovative/evolutionary/revolutionary(necessary to emphasize)I ask under THE CAT.
Sweet, laudatory ode will not - there will be a detailed disassembly and clarification of all the nuances, as well as a comparison with the soldering station v2.0 considered by me in one of the previous curbs (attention traffic, a lot of photos).
The parcel was delivered by the courier directly to the apartment, no matter how ordered...
The parcel itself is not a pretative gray package with information about delivery
Inside the package is a small cardboard box with no sign recognition wrapped in tape
Package weight 595g
Let's take a look inside
Everything is packed qualitatively and carefully.
We get it and consider
In the package
And without
And so, what came:
is a compact KSGER soldering station on the STM32 v3.0 controller with a 1.3-diagonal OLED display.
- soldering pen (rework of the HAKKO 900 series handle with liner) with wire and GX12-5 connector
- Power supply on 24B 3A, surprisingly - a European-style fork
- KSGER T12-K stinger
Nothing superfluous, modest and tasteful, any bonuses are absent ;-)
We begin a detailed examination of the kit that has arrived.
Let's start with the Soldaaya Station itself
The soldering station(further on the text of the PS)is assembled in a metal case. The hull itself consists of two identical P-shaped cuts of the dural profile with a section of 88 x19mm
and two dural panels , front and back
Profile depth 38mm
Given the thickness of the front and back panels have a depth of 41mm.
Sizes PS 88 x38 x41mm
The site lists the size of 88 x 38h40mm
I don't think it's a significant difference in 1mm.
Weight just over 100g
All elements of the case are not painted, but have an anodized coating. The coating is high-quality, scratches and snous.
The front and rear panels are fixed with the M3 screws with a hidden head, 4 screws on each panel.
On the front is a GX12-5 connector to connect the soldering handle, tinted glass covering the display, and the encoder handle is the only blowtorch.
The handle itself is a plastic cup with a liner, on my PS handle dural.
There is a power switch and a connector on the back to connect the external power source. Strangely, the inscription at the connector of the external power source is placed upside down.
The view was collected in the night shift and the collector was a little tired ;-).
It's okay, I'll call.
At the bottom of the case, on two-way scotch, rubber legs are glued
as long as time will tell, my PS legs are screwed with cogs.
Let's look inside the case.
Carefully open the case and what do we see there?
And see the PS v3.0 controller board with an OLED 1.3" display attached to the front, a CR2032 battery to power the watch while the PS is disconnected from the power source, glued to the bottom of the case on the double-sided scotch, power switch and 5.5x2.5 connector to connect the external power source.
Actually nothing special I did not expect here and did not expect ;-).
The only quibble, the places of ration of red wire from the connector to the switch for some reason are not closed by a shrink. Although the tension on these contacts and not high, and the walls of the case far enough, but the installation could be done and neatly.
Consider the PS controller board in more detail
According to the data received from the PS menu, this controller board has a version of v3.0, although many may disagree with this...
Fees 78 x30mm
The installation of the components (mostly SMD) is one-way, on the back of almost nothing, except for quartz, display, encoder and connector GX12-5.
We're going to have to launder myself.
There are also claims to the position of the board itself, it is fixed with a slight skew
You could put the puck on the encoder and level the board position.
Detailed review of the PS controller board
it was thought to be based on the V2.0 concept with an SPI display.
and the topology of the circuit board is very similar to the v2.0 version
From the changes that were determined:
- is used, while V2.0 uses STM32F101CBT6
Who wants to re-ask, pay attention to it
- Also on this board there is a connector to connect the power supply, while on the original board the wires were simply ploughed into the corresponding holes.
The rest of the changes are not fundamental and are related to a slightly different arrangement of components.
Also on the board, in the area of encoder, there is some code 122686SP40-171125, what it means and for what - I do not know.
Fees 78 x30mm
The installation of the components (mostly SMD) is one-way, on the back of almost nothing, except for quartz, display, encoder and connector GX12-5.
We're going to have to launder myself.
There are also claims to the position of the board itself, it is fixed with a slight skew
You could put the puck on the encoder and level the board position.
Detailed review of the PS controller board
it was thought to be based on the V2.0 concept with an SPI display.
and the topology of the circuit board is very similar to the v2.0 version
From the changes that were determined:
- is used, while V2.0 uses STM32F101CBT6
Who wants to re-ask, pay attention to it
- Also on this board there is a connector to connect the power supply, while on the original board the wires were simply ploughed into the corresponding holes.
The rest of the changes are not fundamental and are related to a slightly different arrangement of components.
Also on the board, in the area of encoder, there is some code 122686SP40-171125, what it means and for what - I do not know.
Now consider the soldering pen
As I wrote above, the pen in this set is a reworking of the HAKKO 900-series handle with a special liner.
Many people have seen it here more than once, some of them use it. Pros and cons have been discussed more than once, so I will not repeat myself.
I'll focus a little more on the liner.
This is the third version of the liner that meets me for these pens.
I've got a liner like this.
The old version was also used with STC controllers with 7 segment LED displays.
The cruciate section frame, a rather rigid design, position sensor and termistor are located on the longitudinal edges of the frame. The wires are located in different places at the bottom of the frame. Although they are signed, it is easy to make a mistake by not attentiveness.
As it turned out during the operation, some users, with an intense change of sting, on the position sensor begins to wipe the protective shell. Nothing deadly, but still...
Very often in ready handles there are such earbuds ver. 2.5, 2.6
This liner has a position sensor and a termistor moved to the lower part of the board and are located on one side, and the places of the wires are flattened (located in one row) on the other hand, which is quite convenient for installation.
I got to review the pen with such a liner, ver. 3.6
Differences from ver. 2.5, 2.6 are not significant, mainly in the location of sensors and sing wires.
The wire is almost "classic" and the only difference is that the blue and white wires are swapped
i.e., the position sensor is a white wire and the termistor is blue. Why so do not know, can confuse us want ;-)
The wire from the handle to the GX12-5 connector has a diameter of 5mm and a length of 115cm.
The wire is really silicone, tried to warm a soldering iron - does not melt.
The gloss in the contact of the soldering sting heated up to 350 degrees Celsius was gone, but the insulation itself did not float.
But as for the flexibility of this wire, the similar that I buy on Tao,softer.
The GX12-5 connector is unpacked neatly, but the rations are not covered by a shrinkage
The GX12-5 connector case is metallic and the contact insulation would not be superfluous.
When I unpacked such a connector in my PS, I isolated the contacts
Now let's look at the Power Supply.
Power supply, aka AC/DC ADAPTOR, model KS-2430 has output parameters 24B 3A 72W
Check the output voltage - 24.15B
Weight of power supply with wires 300g
The power supply case is made of black plastic, its size is 133 x59 x35mm
At the top of the line there is a work indicator
burns pale blue, although through the vents of the hull breaks through the red - miracles and only.
There are air vents on the lower face and on the edges between the upper and lateral edges. The holes are real, not the scenery.
On one side of the power supply comes a network cable with a flat Euro-fork (without grounding)
The cable outside has an insulating PVC shell with a section of 3.5 x 5.0mm, a cable length of 87.5cm
Cable is harsh, cross-section of internal lived, if you believe markings, 2x0.5mm2
On the other hand, a cable comes out of the power supply to the PS with a 5.5 x2.5mm connector
The length of the cable is 108.5cm, 4mm diameter
The wire is not heat-resistant, with the usual PVC shell, section 20AWG
The 5.5 x2.5 connector itself is slightly skewed
But it doesn't affect work.
Well, let's look at the giblets of this power supply. It was not necessary to use brute force to open the power supply, the halves of the body are connected with the help of 6 backers
The power supply board was developed clearly under a different case.
The fact that this case is "not native" says several factors:
There are gaps in both length and width.
Those who repair laptops and their power supplies know how tight the board is inserted into the case. And in this case, that the board did not dangle in the case, used Chinese know-how - a piece of two-way tape, with which the board was glued to the body
- The board is designed to install a 220B power connector with grounding
Such a connector was probably even once installed on this board, as evidenced by the adhesive stain in place to install the connector.
In this case, the power cable wires are not even in the holes on the board, but directly to the tracks, and with which it is not very neat
the same goes for the place where the output cable is splous
- The light filter of the power indicator on the case is located in a completely different place, not where the board is hit with LEDs. For some reason there are two of them! One in a regular place of red and the second blue, covered in holes for the output wire)
It seems that in the new standard cases, thrust everything that fits in size and parameters, and not always new.
Let's take a quick look at the power supply itself
There was even an imprint of someone's finger.
There are traces of oxidation in the place where the output cable is snouting...
How does this power supply work at all???
A little circuitry.
The power supply is assembled according to the classic reverse-moving pulse scheme based on the SHIM controller with an external transistor.
The SHIM controller (IC1) is used as
Typical inclusion scheme
The installation of the board is two-sided, radio elements are located both on the top side of the board and on the bottom.
On the board there are almost all the necessary components of the pulse power supply: at the entrance there is a fuse, a ermistor, a varist, a two-cap interference-cancelling filter with X2 capacitors, diode bridge pressed to the radiator, high-voltage capacitor, as well as a high-voltage transistor attached to the radiator and pulse transformer, at the exit we have a diode assembly on the radiator, weekend electrolytic capacitors, two-winding choke, a circuit of voltage stabilization performed on imS TL431 and optopar.
To paint in more detail this power supply probably does not make sense, not the fact that you in such a case will be this fee.
In general, the circuitry and execution of this power supply I liked, made qualitatively and carefully (this is if you do not pay attention to the unwashed flux and a clear second-hand).
Let's start testing the blowtorch.
On the store's website, there are almost no parameters for this PS.
It is not possible for an enlightened buyer to understand that it may not be possible, only general characteristics are specified
Well, we will identify the technical capabilities during testing.
And so - we turn on.
The first thing that catches the eye is a curved display
A clear blockage at the bottom of the left.
Let's move on.
On the display, almost immediately, for 2-3 seconds there is an inscription with the name of the store KSGER
then ps goes into working mode, as reported by the bus embedded in the station. There is no pause in 2-3 seconds before the information appears on the display, which is so annoying to some users in PS v2.0 (v2.0S, v2.1S).
What we see on the screen:
- The top left corner shows the mode of operation and the exposed temperature for the current mode
- In the top right corner, the percentage of power supply power coming to the heating element of the sting is displayed at a given time
- in the center of the screen we see the current temperature on the heating element of the sting
- In the bottom left corner, a thermometer sign and a thermosensor temperature are displayed to compensate for the temperature of the cold sleep.
In the bottom right corner, depending on the settings, you can see either the input voltage of the power supply or two lines of date/time
As we can see, the differences in information on the display in PS v3.0 and v2.0 (v2.0S, v2.1S) are not significant.
What I didn't like was that there was no information about the current regret used and its calibration.
Let's look at the management options of the PS.
PS v3.0, as well as v2.0 (v2.0S, v2.1S), is controlled with the handle encoder. The transition to any mode of operation is confirmed by a beep.
The following ps control combinations are available: the rotation of the handle, the pressing of the handle, the press of the handle with the hold in the pressed position, pressing the rotation of the handle.
When the encoder handle rotates counterclockwise to 1 position, the PS switches from working mode (on set screen: XXX C)to Standby(STANDBY:XXXC),when the rotation is reversed, the working mode is switched back.
To put the PS to sleep (Sleeping),you need to quickly rotate the encoder handle counterclockwise to 3 positions. At the same time, in the center of the display will appear the inscription Sleeping ( z), where the number of seconds before going to sleep
and the timer will start for 5 seconds. The countdown will be accompanied by short beeps. After 5 seconds, the PS will fall asleep and a screen server will appear on the display
The heat of the sting is turned off and its temperature drops to room value.
To put the PS into working mode, you need to press the encoder button.
When the encoder handle rotates quickly clockwise into 3 positions, BOOST mode is activated - boosted heat - increasing the temperature of the PS sting to the value set in the settings menu and at a given time interval. Switching is accompanied by a long beep.
After this time, the PS goes into working mode and the sting temperature drops.
To turn off THE BOOST mode and get back into operation, it's enough to turn the encoder handles counterclockwise into one position.
If in working mode briefly click on the handle of the encoder, psets will go into presets selection mode and adjust their temperature
In this mode, the screen displays the Temp Set, preset No.1, and the temperature ats put. To select the next preset, you need to press and rotate the encoder handle. In the selected preset, the rotation of the encoder handle allows you to set the required temperature value, the change step is adjusted through the settings menu. When you briefly click on the encoder handle, the value is memorized and applied. A total of 5 presets are available.
With a long press on the handle of the encoder (more than 2 seconds) with a turn to the right get in the menu of choice of custom stings
Rotating the encoder handle allows you to select the necessary stinger from the formed list of custom stings.
Long-term clicking on the encoder handle (more than 2 seconds) allows you to get into the Set setup menu Setup Menu.
A total of 19 menu items are available. The transition between the points is rotated - the handle of the encoder, the entrance to a particular item - the click of the handle. Holding the pressed encoder handle for more than 3 seconds allows you to move from the menu item to the step higher. If, being in any menu item, do not take any action within 60 seconds PS switches to working mode.
Let's take a look at settings menu items
- Standby Setup
This item displays:
Mode - Stand-off mode: Shake, Switch, Manual ( manual).
- Time - the time through which PS will switch to standby mode (0÷60 minutes).
Temp is a standby heat element (150÷300 degrees Celsius).
- Set up to sleep (slow shutdown mode).
This item sets up a time of 0÷60 minutes before the PS goes to sleep.
- Boost Heating
This item displays:
"Temp is an increase in temperature from the current temperature (10÷100 degrees Celsius).
Time is the time for boosted heating (1÷30 minutes).
- compensation for cold sleeping temperature
This menu item adjusts the temperature correction of the heating element depending on the ambient temperature:
Mode is a type of thermosensor used: CPU is a thermometer inside a microcontroller/NTC , a remote sensor in the pen of the soldering iron.
Temp is the temperature of the cold sleeper (0÷100 degrees Celsius).
- Library of Sting
- a step of temperature change
This item on the menu displays a change in temperature when the encoder handle rotates (1÷50 degrees Celsius).
- password protection to enter the settings menu
This item displays:
Switch - Protection Switch: ON - on/OFF - off.
Lock - the time before you start blocking the settings menu (0÷60 minutes).
- Screen Keeper
This item tunes in:
Switch - screen keeper turn on: ON - on/off - off.
DlyTime - the time interval after which the screen keeper starts (1÷60 minutes).
When the screen keeper is displaying a picture showing the current mode of operation (Running, Standby, Sleeping) and the temperature of the heating element of the sting
- mode of operation when switching on PS
This item of the menu adjusts the PS mode when it's enabled, with available values: Running, Standby, Sleeping.
- language choice
In this menu item, the language of the system is chosen: English or simplified Chinese.
- Setting a date and time.
- system information
This menu item shows:
HW Ver is a version of the board's release.
SW Ver is a firmware version.
- dumping PS into factory settings
this, after switching off/on power, PS will request the activation code.
Interesting coincidence: . ;-)
- boozer
This menu item adjusts the boomer state: ON - on/off - off.
- choice of rotation direction - encoder handle to increase/decrease the values set when managing PS
This menu item displays the options:
- Opposite - increasing the value of the parameter when spinning counterclockwise
- Channel - increasing the value of the parameter when spinning
- voltage
This item on the menu adjusts the switch from the state of the bottom right corner of the display to show the current value of the power supply input applied to the PS (state-to-day) or date/time (state - OFF).
- low power intake warning
This item tunes in:
Switch - state switch: ON - on/OFF - off.
- A20.1Vol is the voltage threshold at which a warning signal will be sent.
- Down Vol - the value of the power at which PS should remove the heating from the sting.
This option is used, for example, when powering PS from batteries.
- calibration menu
Options are available in this menu:
Start Adj is the start of the calibration.
Init Adj - calibration reset.
" Exit Adj is the way out of calibration mode.
- exit from the settings menu.
As we can see the menu PC v3.0 compared to the same in v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S) is quite heavily redesigned and supplemented.
During the testing of the settings menu, there were problems - sometimes when you change a set, the PS spontaneously switched from settings menu to work mode.
Calibration
I will use the HAKKO FG-100 thermometer
The HAKKO FG-100 thermometer is not a panacea, just I have it, as well as you can use almost any multimeter with a remote thermopa.
Take the proven sting T12-D24 and start calibration.
The calibration starts from the 18-point settings menu. Calibrated on the 3rd points: 250 degrees Celsius - 350 degrees Celsius - 430 degrees Celsius.
The calibration process itself has been described more than once, but I will repeat it again:
From the list of stings used, we choose the necessary
- we go to the 04th menu item and choose which thermosensor we will use: CPU / NTC, as well as exhibit the value of room temperature, in my case 25 degrees Celsius.
- we go to the 18th menu item and, for the purity of the experiment, initially reset the init Adj calibration
- go back to the 18th menu item and choose Start Adj
- The display displays a calibration menu at the bottom of 250 degrees Celsius
Point 1 - setting up a point with a temperature of 250 degrees Celsius
- Curr Temp ( 250 degrees Celsius) - temperature measured by PS
Real Temp - Real temperature on the regret
We measure the temperature on the sting with the external thermometer (don't forget to moisten the sting with a drop of solder) and rotate the encoder handle and set the Real Temp option in accordance with the thermometer's indication. Click on the encoder handle, the picture on the screen changes to
Point 2 - setting up a point with a temperature of 350 degrees Celsius.
We are calibrating at this temperature as well. Click on the handle of the encoder, the picture on the screen changes again, now on
Point 3 is a 430-degree setting point.
We are calibrating at this temperature as well. Push on the handle of the encoder, PS goes into working mode. The sting calibration is over.
If you go to the menu of choosing custom stings, then near the calibrated sting no additional symbols appeared.
In PS v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S) after calibration on display, in brackets, near the name of the sting sign 0 changed to q
Therefore, it is not clear whether the calibration is related to a particular complain or to everyone on the list.
Check the temperature on the screen and the tip of the sting in working mode.
The measured temperature on the sting differs from the one shown on the display not significantly, the error of -3 degrees Celsius is not significant.
Work test from external adjustable power supply
Since I have a compact PS with external power on the review, and the battery option is not excluded, we will check how it will work when the input voltage is lowered. For one check the warning and disabling the heat of the sting while reducing the power voltage below the established values.
As a power source, I will use the RD DPS5015 module, soaked from the transformer TN61 - diode bridge - electrolyte 20,000mFh40V
Maximum weekend options: U'35B, I'6A - enough with a reserve.
Originally in paragraph 16. Voltage Settings menus include a display in the bottom right corner of the input voltage.
Serve on PS 24B and check what voltage is displayed on the display
as we can see - 24B.
In paragraph 17. LowVoltege-P Settings menu we translate the Switch option into ON position. Threshold voltages are unchanged: the threshold voltage is 20.1B, the voltage of the heating sting is 19.5B.
We begin to lower the input tension. At a voltage below 20.1B PS emits 5 intermittent beeps, which are accompanied by a flashing display
The display then displays the information back in working mode.
Continue to lower the input tension on. The input voltage is 19B, and the station both worked and works - no heat outage of the sting, only the voltage indicator began to flash
Strangely, at the input voltage below 19.5B PS should remove the heat of the sting, otherwise the battery can be discharged in 0.
PSG are trying to heat the sting at a voltage below the voltage of the outage - 19.5B
Checked the station's performance when the input voltage was lowered. As it turned out, PS, or rather its electronic part, perfectly continues to work at lowering the input voltage up to 7B, but there is no sense in it. With this input voltage, the heating element of the sting no longer provides proper heating.
During the testing, the following parameters of this PS v3.0 were defined(if someone disagrees with something or can add to the write in the comments, discuss/complement):
1. The range of working temperatures is 150÷480 degrees Celsius.
2. Automatic compensation for cold sleeping temperature in the 0÷100-0-c range.
3. The calibration of the stings used is done on the 3rd points: 250 degrees Celsius - 350 degrees Celsius - 430 degrees Celsius.
4. There are a list of all types of sting HAKKO T12 (83 items) q 6 custom. There is an opportunity to form your own list of used stings.
5. Automatic going into Standby standby (you can set the time of 0÷60 minutes) with the sting temperature dropping to a set value.
6. Automatically go into Sleep Sleeping mode (you can set the time of 0÷60 minutes) with the heat of the sting.
7. Heating speed: from room temperature to 300 degrees Celsius for most stings for an average of 5-7 seconds (power source 24B).
8. Preservation of Temp Set presets of the exposed temperature (5 values).
9. Alert of lower power voltage: if the power voltage is lowered below the established value, the PS signals a decrease in the input voltage, and when the power voltage is lowered below the threshold, the PRESSURE should turn off the heat of the sting, but not in this case.
10. There are real-time clocks, although there is no correction of the clock.
11. There is a screen keeper mode with a screensaver.
12. Interface language: English and simplified Chinese.
During the testing I was waiting for one, very unpleasant, surprise. After resetting the station parameters to factory settings and rebooting on power, PS requested to enter the activation code
Why would it be???
Reset to factory settings is a regular procedure for any devices on microcontrollers/processors when the settings are lost and the device needs to be returned to its original state. This procedure should not be accompanied by re-activis.
I had to start correspondence with the store and wait for the code to be sent. The code was sent and I continued to investigate this PS.
With PS v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S) such problems did not arise, reset the parameters to the factory more than once and never entered the activation code did not have to.
Differences between soldering stations v3.0 and v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S)
- a fast start, there is no pause 2-3 seconds before the information appears on the display, as in PS v2.0 (v2.0S, v2.1S).
- The v3.0 printed board used (according to the settings menu) differs from v2.0, both using another microprocessor and having additional elements
Is different about managing working regimes
- There are differences in the information on the display in working modes, especially the use of another font
- Settings menu is quite heavily redesigned and supplemented, there are differences not only in the name of menu items, but also in their location in the list
There is no graphic information about calibrated stings on the display on the user sting list. It is not clear whether the calibration is related to a particular complain or to everyone on the list
When you reset to factory settings and reboot on the power supply, you need to enter the activation code
Some timers in the settings menu have a countdown of 0 minutes, which is not logical
There is no correcting the accuracy of the watch
The advantages and disadvantages of PS v3.0 and v2.0 (2.0S, 2.1S) can be said to be the same. I will not paint everything, we have already discussed it more than once. Who's interested in reading here.
I will write only specifically for PS v3.0, which got me to review:
Pros
Compact/mobile
- versatility of application - you can soak up the PS from both BP (any providing the necessary parameters) and from batteries
- Settings menu items have a full (not abbreviated) name - convenience in setting up and operating
Cons
When you reset to factory settings and reboots on power, you need to enter an activation code that I don't think is good. The buyer should not have problems with activation after the reset.
not stable, raw firmware. Identified two problems: in the first case, PS was hanging, with the intense heating of the sting, had to turn off the power of the station; in the second case, problems were observed in the settings menu - sometimes when you change any option PS spontaneously switched from settings menu to work mode
The controller's board is installed in a skewed case
- crooked display
There is no information on the current regret used and calibration on the display in working mode
There is no correcting of the clock
- When the input power voltage is lowered below the voltage voltage, the heat of the sting continues
- with a compact performance and a hard cable to the pen of the soldering iron, the PS body sometimes "runs" behind the soldering iron
- power supply - in the new building of BU fee, the store KSGER decided to save on us - customers, but after buying a new thing, we should get a new thing, not second-hand
Let's sum it up: revolution did not happen. Here we are trying to move away from the basic firmware and create something of its own. It worked or not - it's not for me to decide.
Buy this PS or not let everyone decide on their own, I recommend it in the form in which it got on review, I can not. If in the future the firmware will be refined and fixed identified problems, it may turn out not a bad alternative. Time will tell...
The very idea of a compact case and a remote power supply I liked, did not like this implementation.
That's it.
Thank you all for your attention, I look forward to constructive criticism and comments.
The item is provided for the store's review. The review is published in accordance with section 18 of the site's Rules.
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Some one solid file, ranging from a crooked used-and-nodable adapter, ending with a favorite with a code ...
It was nice to see a useful review, not the usual salivation on p.18
I keep buying these controllers on Tao, there are no such problems yet
sancho1971 plus from me for trying.
SY Aka mutnii also bought this miracle, complained about the activation and dampness of the firmware, but he did not ask for a key, just compared the boards and sewed the original firmware and is very pleased with the ;)
IMHO should not buy a controller because of V3.0, the firmware is crude and not finished, an attempt to pluck money on the promoted firmware! Perhaps the new versions will fix everything, BUT another method of activation and not the fact that the store will make out new firmware under it! Who bought this controller, quietly sew normal firmware 2.12 and normally use ;)
Although you already know ;)
Firmware 2.12 - May 14, 2017
added support sting T12 type spatula, T12-N (for tin pump) and jbln
Another question to you. Since I used to use a simple soldering iron, I'm not sure that I understand correctly some of the nuances of the work of this station.
In particular, the boost mode doesn't always work. It seems to me that the station just reboots (because after hanging for a few seconds goes into standby mode, which I set up as a default when turning on the station). Here's the video: youtu.be/iHBJLerZL5s
I have already written to the seller, but I do not yet quite understand whether to claim a refund/compensation (and in what amount) and whether it is a defect.
there should be no overload. The station should raise the temperature by the amount you put on the menu, squeak that the mode works, wait for the set interval of time and again lower the temperature to the standard value
To begin with, put a smaller increase in temperature, not 50 degrees, but at least 20. Check how the station will behave when this mode is turned on.
Check that when you turn on the boostmode, gives out a power supply at the exit, there may be a large voltage drawdown or goes to protect against congestion by current
I noticed that what's on the video happens when the soldering iron is long gone motionless. And when it's in the hand, it's like it's going to turn on normally. Here, I'm not sure whether it's a bug or a feature (like, there's a soldering iron - so there's nothing to include).
I didn't say right away - I have a station with a built-in PB (which is 72W), that is, the power is enough.
Similarly, today this strange behavior manifests itself much less often. Maybe you need a couple of hours to work with him, then warm up and start to glitch again. I'll keep watching.
Well, the seller, after seeing the video, immediately offered to replace the controller.
Next...
Is there such a problem with the dominant sting or with anyone? How much sting do you have?
Sting to start it is desirable to pierce, wrote about it in the last review of sting,and then calibrate
and again, I asked to put a smaller increase in the temperature of the bust, did?
There are three stings. I'm afraid to spoil them so far, never used the waterproof :) One sting so far use (T12-K) and yesterday decided it was to calibrate, but the canifol instantly burned 450 degrees, everything turned black. I don't know how to clean it now, the rag is not washed off. Only the slanted edges of the blade shine, I was able to clean them and periodically lie down, so as not to ruin the sting.
And, the temperature of the sting does not hold stable (or I do not know how to do measurements yet) - at the temperature set at the station 270, the multimeter will show the temperature from 180 to 340 (first large, then it decreases). Tried to just attach a thermopa to the sting, tried on the board a drop of solder to warm and put in it a thermopa - no stability.
So I've canceled the calibration so far. But, too, I will try to measure the temperature further, most likely, it is simply inexperience and because of fear does not work.
And how to pierce the sting? The fact that it worked for a few hours at a temparatura 150-350 degrees does not count for pumping? Resistance sting now stands at 7.8 Om.
5-10 minutes at a temperature of 300 degrees is enough for pumping
how to calibrate just wrote in reviews, there are videos on YouTube
Try another sting...
nothing's going to happen to him.
In general, it was enough to slightly clean the thermopara of the multimeter and the temperature stopped swimming so strongly. Calibrated the sting K (the error was only 5-20 degrees at different calibration marks, I think that the error of the multimeter thermopara is about the same order).
The glitch hasn't appeared yet, I'll keep an eye on it.
And ordered a software programr to update the firmware. Although, it is hardly a firmware - after yesterday, after the reboot of the station software every time re-started from scratch and the glitch appeared very stable. Most likely, the problem is in the controller, somewhere there is a hardware floating glitch, which manifests itself in the circumstances not clear yet (presumably - heating). And the new controller, which was offered by the seller, should solve the problem.
As the controller comes, I will change, observe and report the results.
Thank you so much for your support.
You can now experiment
puts 10 also cuts out
The video below.
The problem is described below.
board components.
percent stm32f103cbu6
ou s06ac
se8533 stabiliser
Memory 24c08n
key tpc8107
it seems the problem is this element.
I can barely hold my finger.
another such moment, if I keep my finger on the stab and turn on the bust, the bust is turned on.
the other day I'll try to hang an extra capacity, or serve separately 3.3 volts.
my bp gives out 25.5 volts was not so important.
hooked up to this board bp from another station (rectangular), after a while the defect was repeated, bp gave out 24 volts, ie overvoltage here has nothing to do with.
the crutch of the conder did his job, the defect disappeared (drove about an hour, no more time.)
next time I'll try to experiment with the stabilizer input voltage.
s.s.
noticed such a thing, when you start the bust, the screen slightly dulls and the screen slips jamming.
mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/62126.html#comment2998951
I have a similar problem with the bead. The capacitor on the exit of the stabilizer put as in the video was. It seems to work, but dissatisfaction is...
that would unload the stabilizer, put in the power gap the usual roll 7815, chased a couple of hours, the problem was not observed, although the staff stabilizer is still very warm, or it is defective, or does not pull (although consumption of 3.3 volts there pontoons, percent, memory, indicator and boozer)
when you start the bust, it starts to squeak (with hoarseness)
the brightness of the display slightly faded, the interference slipped and the station was overloaded.
turned off the boozer on the menu, and also fell out, the problem with the bust was not observed.
I can't explain the physics of this process, I think the consumption of the boozer knocked out the stabilizer.
s.s.
maybe it's messy, but I'm not a writer, I'm a reader.
By the way, I described to the seller what the problem was in his board. He wrote to me that in the next version of the controller they had already replaced the U5 with a more suitable stabilizer. That is, they know the problem well and have already solved. Only, for some reason, the same controllers with se8533 :(
Well, that's understandable and so. Fees with SE8533 have already been issued, they should be sold, so they shove ...
youtu.be/TAtG559ujy8
with the ethics of ordering one solid problem.
1. described above
2. ordered 20 stings, in the parcel found 12.
wrote to her, attached a video of unpacking, she turns on the frost,
writes the parcel in the weigh and post a picture,
the next day asks for separate photos of each product, post
1 photo sting.
2 photo solder.
2 boxes, inside put, a belly button, a bag with Chinese air.
writes that it weighs a lot of packaging, take more pictures.
today made a video weighing, and photo boxes and belly buttons,
I'll see what she says.
I think she's stalling.
question to the coryphaeus of shopping and musk.
1 why isn't she comfortable with the unboxing video?
I'm writing to her watch the video, she's freezing.
2 Is it possible to make an anti-review on musks?
What's the lick? I bought it at the KSGER Official Store. In my video, the seller immediately offered a replacement controller - apparently, he knows about this glitch.
XIao Wu Tool Store
mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/62126.html#comment2958817
sancho1971 is ahead, clone of your store, by the way they have another clone.
I know it's Girl's Electric Tool Store
warmed up stopped.
removed the lid, the behavior has not changed, is cut down.
it looks like some element is overheating.
Open the lid, check the temperature on the elements
That's U2, the 3.3B stabilizer???
I like the 2954 circuit
Maybe she's lying, just on nutrition...
I have that pay.
on the legs of this stabilizer coincides with 2954am3-3.3???
Judging by the photo, it is really less than 2954 and the sight is not cool
Maybe you should plough over and calm down?
and C6 ceramics, not electrolytes.
SPX2954
SE8533
what does SE8533 have in its capacity and load capacity?
as an option to glue on the thermoglue (not snot), a piece of aluminum - a la radiator
or sculpt with a hinged montage something more powerful
If I can experiment tonight.
Well, why watch all this movie for 15 minutes, if you could just write a solution to the problem?
- on the exit of the tam hung electrolyte on 470.0 x10
What has not yet liked, the BP of this new version gives an increased voltage of 26B - pulsations because of which the stable of the sum went off, so you need to refine the output
Perhaps in a dispute the Chinese will direct to this video...
come see what happens.
I'll get the package in town tomorrow.
The stacks have different swinging.
mysku.ru/blog/aliexpress/62126.html#comment2998951
I received the promised controller.
The scheme is slightly altered.
I didn't check the work, there was no electricity in the workshop in the morning, and in the afternoon there was laziness to go there.
I'm putting out a photo board.
On the back of the day...
The cutter had a resistor assembly removed
- under the field also disappeared one resistor
-- between the stab and the in the land there was more SMDs
It's from the photo, I do not have such a fee...
Stable as I see the same...
1
the r10 assembly was smeared on the board with discrete resistors.
2
added a pair of diodes, battery-powered, let through the diode, and on the tight leg of the controller through the diode let 3.3 volts.
3
diode d2 of a different type.
4
The stab is the same.
5
Oh, it's different.
the problem with the busttot did not appear, on the old climbed after five minutes.
Answered the seller that vk is not a profile resource, and on the musket already tons of reviews of this product, so it is not interesting to anyone and except irritation will not cause anything.
But, apparently, not everyone can hold on to the condition of receiving something "on the ball" :)
and taking into account all the identified kos and adequate conclusions, I hope you will draw the right conclusions
stations will not be enough;-)
I prefer to buy/bring such goods to Tao
2) But how does the station distinguish what sting is installed?
So the plus for the review put, but minus for the goods to put nowhere :)
By the way:
it was like this at STC, it ended up with the fact that I stopped warming at all.
The sting was heated red, and the failure occurred at the moment of inclusion.
It was treated only by dumping on the factory.
In this case, do the reset categorically do not recommend...
I don't want that kind of semi-autonomousness.
cookiesaccording to p.18. Nothing new in the next review. At the same time, there are other solders, about which little is written.At least about the sting T12 wrote, would compare with the original or how they in the process of use (whether quickly burn out, how polluted, etc),calibrated stingers - a significant moment to buy this station.
No reviewer has written whether these ESD stations are safe, this is a significant point. But the complete unpacking of the parcel with a bunch of photos.
Brow for half a year on the site only 11 comments, not to mention reviews, but he is a cool special-critic
I ordered from the Chinese only controller with software 3.0, and sent from 2.09. Judging by the review, this is for the best.
The fee is the same as that of the author.
But the price they broke ... I have one, but I can't get it.
These sold-out stations just appeared on sale before the New Year
I didn't see anything cognitive for myself.
and most importantly, there is no q neither -
After watching this video, in your review I have not read anything new or important.
The main advantage of this soldering station is the convenience of working on a car battery and the convenience of carrying it with you. For this purpose and bought it.
if YES, it is interesting to know what is inside the case...
nick then doesn't argue, and I just mentioned that in q
but the number of minuses revealed crosses out all the advantages
And then:
You'll make up your way)
According to the scheme, yes, not a bad option.
Used a power supply with such shobs for that price? How many used times does it have if there are traces of corrosion on the board?
and the essence of my comment is not in what to call it, but how much time the BP is already used, and whether it makes sense to buy a strong used power supply for such a sum.
I have this T12 for a month with the controller 2.1 (assembly set), this is my first to try, collect no time. After all, it was necessary to order entirely collected. It's good that I didn't get on 3.0, I felt there was something wrong with her.
By the way, recently bought a power supply to the scanner - the outside is exactly the same.
In the following photos it is already exactly standing
PS minus not my...
I'm going to have to do it....))
It's some comparison of the warm I'm soft.
I wrote my opinion, I did not conduct any special tests, but the sting of KSGER I am completely satisfied. They are very comfortable and comfortable. Well- well- warmed even large landfills. When in contact with the part, the station instantly turns on the heating.
I fully admit that the stings of other manufacturers can be better or worse. Do not forget about a possible marriage, at a low price quality control may not be.
Rju!!!
With regard to marriage, it is also clear that several regrets were tested by more than one panelist.
I'll say the same thing.
Read my comment carefully, the text of your comment on the link you sent in response, and my response to it.
I've already read the "comment branch" and saw better testing options there. The question was to your "methodology," which you positioned as confirmation of "poor thermal conductivity."
It's about marriage. I do not encourage anyone to buy the sting of a manufacturer. Similarly, I do not dissuade from buying from others. There is too little information to conclusions. A couple of people for such a resource as the musk, who got married, it's a little. Although I agree, it's unpleasant. And if I myself had no previous positive experience of buying stings in this store, I would not experiment.
Let's see what sting I get from KSGER
Let's discuss it...
If there is something worthwhile and adequate that can be reproduced by anyone on the available soldering station, then all will be only AA.
There are still very worthy stings SUHAN, brought with Tao, and B/U original HAKKO is not uncommon (the same references gave below). That's all it is desirable to compare and draw conclusions
at least that would compare B/U original HAKKO and SUHAN
Do you understand what you've written about? Unisonder is a panacea for everything? I'll tell you this, on this controller I launched the cartridge GOOT RX-80HRT-4.5K perfectly soldering, albeit four output ;) But the price discourages hunting 10-15$
Well, if any controller to plough, try the sting T12-D08, T12-C1.
Again, I hooked up the original, Japanese cartridge firm Goot, on the trial were not only the sting "axe" but RX-80HRTSB (needle 0.15), RX-80HRT-LB (needle 0.25), RX-80HRT-1C (1mm tsj) I have a sufficient stake in the company's cartridges, Because I own the station RX802AS and I will tell you, the controller soldered very well with non-native stings, needles confidently worked, replacing micro-jusbs on the phone ... no problem, which can not be said about good copies of T12, but you can work with them. So the controller will quietly reveal the potential of the original T12 sting ;) Here the stings need good and the controller does its job perfectly to make the buds that facilitate the work of ;)
If we are talking about thermal conductivity, there is probably no reliable and at the same time available to the masses of verification methodology. In addition, it is also not easy to achieve repeatability of results.
The well-known test with dipping the sting into the water, the reaction rate of the station indirectly can show their thermal conductivity.
In my opinion, if there is a marriage, then in the case of T12 it is clearly noticeable.
In general, of course you need to pay attention to the quality. If there are a lot of claims to KSGER gills, then there is a problem. But a few of their stings, which have been with me since the end of last year, did not cause any complaints.
And my method does not exist, because it was not even developed and, especially, I was not proclaimed as such. My knee check is not like that either.
What you thought about it and attributed to me is solely your business. Your argument with yourself is meaningless :)
"You're going to burst, baby!" ))))
PS. Didn't you open the dispute? ;-) You're arguing with a respected dSave
I only voiced my claim to the stings of KSGER, no more.
differs not only the profile of the roll, but also the diameter of these rings
Links;-)
we're going to drive
Here's the microwave on the second link, took it there.
JBC C245-907 used to be in perfect condition, took for half the price.
T12-K in excellent condition
in STM32, as I understood, there is an opportunity to keep profiles under different stings and quickly choose after a shift.
What should you aim for when you buy? It is supposed to be 4-5 stings to use. Mobility is not needed, i.e. with a built-in BP.
Of those that KSGER has heard, zuicko.
And better on the 2.1S board version
differences in the display used, and the presence of contacts on the board to connect the dismantling solder
Other features are the same
Do they have any differences in the work of PID?
different display interface
2.0 does not have the ability to work with a tin pump
2.0S has
But maybe there's something else. 2.1S is kind of like the last version was (unless this 3.0 is considered).
just 2.1S is newer until the latest version
if the sting of the original HAKKO, you can solder and on the STC, once calibrated and use, the scattering of readings set and real temperature will be, but not critical. This option is cheaper...
if the finances and stings allow may be the most Chinese, it is better to buy a controller on STM32 v2.1S OLED 1.3.
On Ali there are THREE stores selling such controllers and they all sell KSGER sold.
Choose yourself, write questions here or face
the second time partially hung in working mode (frieze for a few seconds). After it's been a long time since it's been done, the sting has warmed up to 450 (!!!!)
In addition, the glitchy encoder slips in the opposite direction often.
Power - a block powered by a microtic 24 to 2.5a
The second station 2.1 (took a bare fee, the case is homemade) works perfectly.
At the beginning of the comments there are recommendations from Nimnul1979,and the firmware is laid out at the end of my review,there are links to Yandex and gugul drives. How to sew told here (there and the links are duplicated). You'll need a firmware T12_HW20_Encryption_OLED13
I'm thinking about re-asking, but there's no time. Especially on the table is another and works perfectly.
I will tell you right away not for the public, the whim is not mine but the author, we will only help and distribute the codes to all who will ask, so write to whom what you need.
Video for seeding.
1. The activation is not more important. It's a day of EEPROM.
2. He's looking at the work of the ppovitnia.
3. The same degree of inclusion.
4. zorodo rucic language.
(Artefacts on the dishe is a jam-battered display)
P.S. If someone wants to participate in the correct translation and offer their options, write in person.
Combined controller (2 in 1), by the way, starts instantly, the delay is only due to the launch of the "people's" BP. It only strains encoders backwards :)
As already written above, on the board 2.1s on another connected display, so firmware from 2.1s will not suit.
But this is not a problem, the functionality is almost the same, I have already re-simplified mine
How can I increase the brightness of the display? Very dim
Stock really glitchy, The Chinese squished - like so it should, funny such )))
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